Second Empire (1852-1871)
Claude Monet, Women in the Garden [Detail], 1866, Paris, Musée d'Orsay.
The Second Empire was established against the backdrop of the Universal Exhibition and the Industrial Revolution. The technical progress of the time contributed to the growth of the economy and the emergence of a middle class. In addition, the mechanization of processes, including in jewelry, made the pieces more accessible. And then, with the gold rush in California and the discovery of mines in South Africa in the mid-19th century, the shortage of raw materials was finally overcome. Also the number of people wearing jewelry increases, as well as the number of jewelry worn with a predilection for bracelets from 1840 to 1860.
Neo-Renaissance enthusiasm continued, along with a Neo-Gothic influence stemming from an interest in the Middle Ages. Heraldic figures, motifs inspired by architecture - arches, arches - and also fantastic creatures (dragons, chimeras, griffins) are coupled with the use of enamel.
Gold and diamond chimera brooch
In the field of women's fashion as well as in that of jewelry, there was a resurgence of the 18th century. Indeed, the Empress Eugenie had a particular passion for Marie-Antoinette. As for the dresses, while the bust is always enclosed in a corset we try at all costs to counterbalance the thin waist by a voluminous skirt. First with numerous ruffles and multiple folds, then with the help of the crinoline-cage remained the emblem of the Second Empire. It was also during this period that haute couture was born in its contemporary sense, under the leadership of Charles-Frédéric Worth, considered the father of the latter. As far as jewelry is concerned, we see the return in force of diamonds and a naturalist repertoire with a predilection for flowers - and daisy rings -the knots, the pompoms, the pearls baroque and seed. The trembling mounts (the motifs are arranged on springs in such a way as to cause their movement and give an impression of life) are perfected. Does this sound familiar? Well seen, we will find this neo-rococo style a few decades later, in the Belle Époque.
Let us not forget also the celestial motives, moons and stars, then very in vogue.
Nevertheless, other influences are blowing on the jewelry of the Second Empire, starting with a taste for Antiquity. On the one hand, even if they did not suffer from disaffection at the time of the Restoration and the July Monarchy, cameos returned to the forefront of the scene larger and more daring. On the other hand, the purchase by Napoleon III in 1861 of a large part of the Campana collection, containing Etruscan jewelry, galvanized interest in ancient jewelry in general. The archaeological collection installed in the Louvre was copied, while ancient Roman pieces were mounted in jewelry. Here, exactly as in our Odyssey collection ! 😉
Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres, Joséphine-Eléonore-Marie-Pauline de Galard de Brassac de Béarn, Princess de Broglie [Detail], Circa 1851-53, New York, Metropolitan Museum.
Mixing pearls and antique jewelry in yellow gold, the portrait of the Princess de Broglie by Ingres is a perfect illustration of the 18th century and Etruscan trends mentioned above. Is this the end of the story? Not at all! The Second Empire style is rightly described as eclectic in the book Bijoux anciens 1800-1950 - Découvrir, identifier et apprécier (ed. Geoffray Riondet).
We have already mentioned the influence of the Queen Victoria on the fashion of mourning jewelry. The latter, inconsolable following the consecutive deaths of her mother and her great love Albert in 1861, wore mourning for forty years and popularized the eponymous jewelry. In onyx, jet, agate or enamel, the principle is that it is black jewelry. Often mounted on yellow gold, more rarely with an iron frame, they are sometimes enhanced with delicate pearls or colorless stones and may contain a lock of hair or any other symbol reminding the loved one.
Round bee, tiger eye and diamond brooch
In another register, the naturalist inspirations are not limited to the motifs of the flora. Flies, bees, spiders, the repertoire of jewelry flirts with that of insects. We also note an appropriation of animal wildlife with, for example, the use of tortoise shell, or tiger claw pendants.
Also, the piercing of the Suez Canal puts the Egyptian motifs back in the limelight as well as the coral knows a return of favor.
Finally, the end of the 19th century saw the emergence of a new, more frivolous and naive jewelry: motifs inspired by everyday life and more specifically by sports - hunting and horse racing, for example, but also lucky charms (especially horseshoes, shamrocks).
Ready to succumb to our Second Empire selection?
19th Century Jewelry Bingo
What to remember ? Please note that the inventories below are intended to highlight the common places in 19th century jewelry and are probably not an exhaustive list. Moreover, keep in mind that the borders between the different periods are porous: it is not because the jewel of feeling is classified in the chapter "Restoration and July Monarchy" that it disappears with Napoleon III!
- Techniques: Canetille, stamping, grenetis, trembling mounting, finely chiseled gold, stones on pearl or foil, silver setting, glyptic (cameos and intaglios)
- Materials: diamond, coral, garnet pyrope, turquoise, opal, rubyhard stones (cameos and intaglios, micro-mosaics) and beads fine, enamel, jewelry steel tip and iron of Berlin, organic materials with a special mention for hair
- Shapes: sets and half-sets, head jewelryjewelry with transformation, acrostic jewelryOrnaments of bodice, functional jewelry - seals, watch chains, pins - garter rings, rush and daisy, poissardestassels, rivers, medallions opening
- Influences: Greco-Roman antiquity, Ancient Egypt, Middle Ages, Renaissance, Marie-Antoinette
- Motifs: Repertoire of flora, celestial motives, snakesinsects, fantastic creatures, cross "à-la-JeannetteLucky motifs (clovers, horseshoes), hearts (entwined, crowned, topped with a knot), knots, tassels, Etruscan motifs, heraldic motifs, motifs from the above influences
And pell-mell: Jewelry of feeling, mourning jewelry, romanticism, orientalism, neo-classicism, neo-gothic, neo-renaissance, Egyptomania, Queen VictoriaDandyism, symbolism, naturalism.
Finally, we reveal the team's favorite sins: Camille's passion for snakes is obvious and Alicia has a big weakness for fishes. As for me, I'm still looking for a nice yellow gold negligee with tassels.
Belle Époque, Art Nouveau and Art Deco, continue the journey !