After having discussed it in the article on organic materialswe thought that coral deserved its moment of glory. Firstly, because it is said to have many apotropaic virtues, i.e. it is said to divert evil influences to someone else. Secondly, because the coral legend is rooted in Greek mythology. We love stories: when we don't choose the goddess as our muse Artemis we slip mythology minutes into almost all our articles!

 

 

Antique gold and coral drop earrings

 

Finally, as coral is an endangered natural resource (as a reminder, many species have been protected by the Washington Convention since 1975), if we can participate in the circular economy of coral by encouraging you to buy "unique, precious and ethical" antique pieces rather than encouraging the creation of new coral jewellery, we will have fulfilled our mission.

Legend has it that coral was born from the blood of Medusa's severed head. You know, that creature with the hair ophidian that has the ability to petrify anyone who looks at it.

 

Joseph Christophe, Perseus cutting off Medusa's head1702, Tours, Musée des Beaux-Arts.

 

Medusa will be killed by Perseus, fruit of the embrace between Danae and Zeus (we tell you about the myth of Danae and the rain of gold in the article on precious and non-precious metals). Acrisius, who has been told that his grandson will kill him, is a bit on edge when he learns that despite his idea to lock his daughter in a tower of bronze, Danae has had a son. So he locks mother and offspring in a chest and sets it adrift. He ends up on the island of Polydecte, who is also in love with Danae and sends his son to kill Medusa - thinking that he will soon be rid of this troublesome son-in-law.

 

But thanks to the help of Hermes and Athena, who give Perseus magical weapons, he reaches the Gorgons' lair and cuts off Medusa's head. At the moment of decollation, the blood petrifies and turns into coral. His stoning power works beyond Medusa's death; when Perseus returns as a hero (obviously one who hasn't suffered much from impostor syndrome), he takes care to lay the head face down on a bed of seaweed - so as not to petrify his followers. The latter then turn into a "red stone"... That's why coral is called gorgeia in Greek, which comes from gorgonian!

 

 

Antique three-row coral bracelet, gold clasp

 

Since Ovid, who tells this story in the Metamorphoses, we know a little more about biodiversity. Coral is a marine invertebrate living in colonies, attached to a rocky base. After the death of the animals, the pile of their skeletons fossilises and creates ornamental rocks.

There is a variety of keratinous coral that varies in hue from black to gold, but limestone coral is the most common in antique jewellery. Its colour varies from powder pink, in which case it is called "angel skin", to blood red. It seems that the colour of the coral is due to the presence of zooxanthellae within them. These algae take up residence in the coral to live. As a rent, they provide the polyps with the food they need and also their orange-red colour. In the Mediterranean we find the "corallium rubrum". Moreover, and this is true for example for the Colombian emerald or the Burmese ruby, certain often historical origins are more attractive and sought after. This is the case for coral from the Mediterranean basin. The shade of colour varies according to the depth of the sea bed.

 

 

 

 

Zooxanthellae do not acclimatise well to the heat and that is why coral from warmer seas, called "corallium japonicum", varies from salmon to powder pink. Moreover, with global warming coral is bleaching exponentially. We don't want to sound the alarm, but as red coral becomes rarer, we advise you to invest in one of our jewels now!

Moreover, coral is supposed to protect against bad luck. In many civilisations, from ancient Greece to the Roman Empire, a branch of coral placed around a child's neck was thought to preserve innocence and ward off evil spirits. In the Christian religion, it symbolises the blood of Christ and redemption. In addition, the Corsican "Figa" hand (a clenched fist) or chilli pepper is traditionally given to newborns as a token of good fortune.

And does a chauvinistic Corsican who was Emperor of the French at the beginning of the 19th century ring a bell? His reign coincided with the return of coral's popularity. The French revolution having left the country in flames, the jewellery industry suffered from a lack of raw materials. This may be part of the reason for the success of coral, as well as the influence of Antiquity and Orientalism. It can be found in particular on the head jewelleryIt was very fashionable at the time.

 

 

 

 

The success of coral is linked not only to its democratization by the imperial family - for example above Joséphine de Beauharnais wears a head jewel, a pair of earrings and a necklace made of coral; but you have also been given the example of Caroline de Bonaparte, the emperor's sister and queen consort of Naples, who gave economic support to the coral ornament manufacturers. Finally, Hortense de Beauharnais, daughter of Joséphine, adopted by Napoleon and Queen of Holland; married to one of Napoleon I's brothers - if the family - owned a half set of gold, coral cameos and fine pearls now kept in Rueil-Malmaison. Finally, coral remained popular throughout the 19th century, as did the cameo fashion.

 

 

 

One also finds under the second empire the influence of Antiquity, as shown for example by the acquisition by Napoleon III of the Campana collection composed of Greek, Roman and Etruscan jewels as well as exoticism with in particular the universal exhibitions. Although it continued to be used during the Art Nouveau period, giving pride of place to organic materials, coral returned in force during the Art Deco period. After having represented nature and embodied a fantastic bestiary, coral was graded to form geometric patterns.

 

 

 

 

Coral, like the pearl is an organic material that requires special care. Avoid putting your jewel in contact with water. Intimacy with the skin or sweat can also reduce its shine. It should be cleaned with a soft cloth, and if you want to give it a polish (coral sometimes has a whitish appearance), do not hesitate to nourish it with a few drops of sweet almond oil! Finally, if possible, keep it in a soft pouch.

Now that you know all about its virtues, and we imagine that you don't have a gorgonian head and seaweed on hand to make some, we leave you with our complete selection of jewellery to offer yourself or to be offered (at random, for your coral wedding anniversary which celebrates eleven years of marriage!)

Victorian Red Salmon coral and tortoise shell tiara, hair pin, 19th Century

bague-clou-or-corail: bague-or-jaune-camee-corail: boucles-doreilles-anciennes-creoles-corail: boucles-doreilles-gouttes-corail: bague-marquise-vintage-cocktail-corail: peigne-cheveux-ancien-diademe-corail: collier-ancien-branche-corail-or-rose: collier-ras-de-cou-vintage-corail-peau-ange: bague-fuseau-moderniste-or-corail: bracelet-ancien-or-corail: comb-a-cheveux-ancien-diademe-de-mariage-ecaille-de-tortue-corail