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The history of the Pompadour ring


 

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Eleven years ago, Prince William and Kate Middleton announced their engagement. This is an opportunity for us to look back at the ancestry of one of the most famous rings on the planet, created by the jeweller Garrard. But did you know that the daisy is originally French?

  







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The Marquise de Pompadour

 

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François BOUCHER, Portrait of the Marquise de Pompadour, 1756, Munich, Alte Pinakothek

 

Jeanne-Antoinette Lenormant d'Etiolles, née Poisson, made her first appearance at Versailles in February 1745 at a masked ball. Although her bourgeois origins earned her the derision of the aristocracy (did you say XVIIIth century?), the king made her his official favorite in September of the same year and immediately offered her the Pompadour estate.
The Marquise de Pompadour was now in place. She exerted her influence on the king in many ways, and even relieved him of her duties as lover in the 1750s - it is rumored that she herself provided him with the tenderest flesh - she remained an ally of Louis XV until his death in 1764.
But back to our daisies.

The origin of the Pompadour ring

 

Penelope Paris Antique Jewelry Gallery

Carle VAN LOO, La belle jardinière 'Madame de Pompadour', Second half of the 18th century, Nantes, Musée Dobrée

 
In the 1960s, La Pompadour was given the Petit Trianon overlooking the French Garden, the Botanical Garden and the Flower Garden of Versailles. History tells us that it was in this natural setting that our trendsetter came up with the idea of a flower-shaped ring.

 

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Marguerite ruby ring set with diamonds on gold

 

The daisy ring, also known as the Pompadour ring, is characterised by a central stone set with a crown of usually smaller stones.

 

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Emerald and diamond daisy ring

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Marquise waist

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Marquise emeralds and diamonds ring

 

But the king is not to be outdone when it comes to spoiling his friend. With a new diamond cut derived from the brilliant cut and characterised by its pointed ends, he would have liked to materialise the smile - all things considered - of our 18th century muse.

 

Penelope Paris Antique Jewelry Gallery

ANONYMOUS, Portrait of Madame de Pompadour, 2nd half of the 18th century, Tulle, Musée du Cloître André Mazeyrie

 

This diamond cut is called "Marquise". By extension, rings with an oblong bezel are called by the same name.

 

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Marquise diamond ring

 

 









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Not content with exercising her power under Louis XV for almost twenty years in the political, literary and artistic fields, the Marquise's impact on clothing and decoration was such that the name Pompadour itself became that of a style. It is therefore in all relaxation that she also leaves her mark on jewellery and can pride herself on being an influencer before the letter.

And if you doubt it, think of us when you drink champagne from a glass that legend has it was moulded on the breast of our muse!

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