Known as the Belle Époque period (1890-1915) in France and the rest of Europe, the Edwardian era was named after King Edward VII and lasted throughout his short reign, between 1901 to 1910. After the more conservative Victorian period it was a frivolous time for the country’s upper classes, encouraged by King Edward’s own love of expensive things, spectacular parties, and his light-hearted, fun loving nature.
The trend for Edwardian jewellery, which lasted between 1901 until 1915, was influenced by this trend for decadence as well as the designs favoured by Edward’s wife Alexandra of Denmark, and also the changes in society and women’s fashions taking place at the time.
Platinum, diamond and emerald bow necklace
The trend for Edwardian jewellery, which lasted between 1901 until 1915, was influenced by this trend for decadence as well as the designs favoured by Edward’s wife Alexandra of Denmark, and also the changes in society and women’s fashions taking place at the time.
THE GOLDEN AGE OF PLATINUM
Ring "Eternity" in platinum, gold, diamonds and sapphires
Platinum was a new metal at the time which helped create the style of Edwardian jewellery. It’s bright white colour was well suited to the feminine shapes and pastel colour palette.
Once jewellers had fully mastered how to use the robust metal it was the perfect choice for crafting the delicate lace and embroidery designs that were popular at the time. Platinum’s strength also made it suitable for millegraining, the tiny and delicate beading on the edge of a piece of jewellery or surrounding a gemstone that was often used in Edwardian pieces to soften sharp edges and add a lighter finish in keeping with the feminine style.
THE STONES
Diamonds were the stone most commonly used in Edwardian jewellery, partly due to their availability and relatively affordable price at the time but also because they helped create the glittering finish that was favoured at the time.
Fancy cuts such as marquise and pear-shaped were frequently used, as were single cut diamonds, which replaced the previously popular rose cut diamonds. Improved cutting techniques meant that rounder, more brilliant 17 facet diamonds also became more common in Edwardian pieces.
You & Me natural pearl and aquamarine
Pearls were the second most popular stone after diamonds and in fact were more expensive; as cultured pearls didn’t appear on the market until 1921 all pearls at this time were natural.
Their white finish suited the soft pastel shades of ladies’ fashions whilst later in the period they were used with black enamel and black onyx to create the striking monochromatic colour palette. Pearls were also used as drops on jewellery to add to the illusion of movement.
Sapphires, emeralds, rubies and semi-precious stones such as amethyst, garnet, opals moonstone and peridots can also be found in Edwardian jewellery, often as the centre stone in a halo ring and surrounded by diamonds.
THE JEWELERS
Platinum and diamonds were fully embraced by Cartier, who pioneered the use of this new metal. The French house also became the official jewellery supplier to King Edward, and this royal stamp of approval made Cartier more popular than ever. Its highly skilled jewellers deftly worked platinum into fine and delicate pieces of jewellery which were set with high quality stones.
To create the house’s innovative styles Louis Cartier encouraged his designers to find inspiration in 18th Century pattern books and to walk the street of Paris with a sketchbook to observe the city’s architecture, making the jewellery house a major trend setter in this period.
Belle Epoque emeralds and diamonds brooch, Cartier
Boucheron was another prestigious French jewellery house known for its cutting edge designs during the Edwardian era under the new leadership of Louis Boucheron, who took over from his innovative father in 1902. Whilst Cartier’s popular design of the time was the lavalier necklace, supposedly named after the French actress Ève Lavallière, Boucheron’s signature design was a necklace of strung pearls separated by diamond rondelles created by Paul LeGrand.
Although Chaumet has always produced fine jewellery in all its forms the house was particularly known for its exquisite tiaras, crowns, and headwear, meaning that it was one of the most popular houses amongst high society ladies for purchasing tiaras to attend King Edward’s glamourous balls. of this new metal. The French firm was the official jeweller to King Edward, and thus became more popular than ever.
JEWELRY
The changing fashions heavily influenced Edwardian jewellery and new styles emerged as women’s fashions became more liberating. When necklines changed and became more revealing it led to new ways to adorn the exposed skin.
Sapphire daisy pendant in diamond setting
Popular styles included the colliers de chien or “dog collar” necklace, a favourite of Queen Alexandra, which came in the form of black velvet collars with a sparkly motif placed at the centre as well as more elaborate designs in which strands of pearls were strung into rows which would sit tightly around the neck. The Edwardian period is also when the negligee necklace appeared, a fine chain that has two parallel pendants hanging from it, often at different lengths. The lavalier necklace, which comes in various forms but is usually an elongated drop pendant hanging from a chain to create a “Y” shape, also became more in demand even though it had already been around for centuries. The rivière necklace, which is a strand of stones that graduate in size was another favoured necklace style as was the résille, a net-like structure crafted from platinum and set with diamonds which covered the entire neck and part of the bodice. Sautoirs, long strands of pearls finished with tassels, were worn not only around necks but also waists, bodices and arms.
The Edwardian period is also when the negligee necklace appeared, a fine chain that has two parallel pendants hanging from it, often at different lengths.
The lavalier necklace, which comes in various forms but is usually an elongated drop pendant hanging from a chain to create a “Y” shape, also became more in demand even though it had already been around for centuries. The rivière necklace, which is a strand of stones that graduate in size was another favoured necklace style as was the résille, a net-like structure crafted from platinum and set with diamonds which covered the entire neck and part of the bodice. Sautoirs, long strands of pearls finished with tassels, were worn not only around necks but also waists, bodices and arms.
Queen Elisabeth of Belgium
The rivière necklace, which is a strand of stones that graduate in size was another favoured necklace style as was the résille, a net-like structure crafted from platinum and set with diamonds which covered the entire neck and part of the bodice.
Sautoirs, long strands of pearls finished with tassels, were worn not only around necks but also waists, bodices and arms.
Earrings have evolved from simple diamond studs, or dormeuses, to more ornate and voluminous creations: earrings. The many popular motifs and techniques of the time, such as the garland or the millegrain, can be found in them.
Rings were often worn stacked on fingers and many featured the same miniature bow and garlands motifs as the brooches. Halo rings set with one central coloured stone, as well as a wider style set with three horizontal stones, were also a fashionable and can make a unique modern day engagement ring.
Rings were often worn stacked on fingers and many featured the same miniature bow and garlands motifs as the brooches. Halo rings set with one central coloured stone, as well as a wider style set with three horizontal stones, were also a fashionable and can make a unique modern day engagement ring.
Belle Epoque bracelet, pearls and diamonds, Christie's, 2020
Tiaras were also very fashionable with elite society and thanks to platinum they could be elaborately designed and encrusted with diamonds without being too heavy to wear. Later in the period tiaras evolved into the more discreet bandeau style which was worn across the forehead tied at the back of the head with a ribbon.
The start of WWI in 1914 saw the end of the frivolous Edwardian period and the soft and graceful styles of Edwardian jewellery gave way to the thoroughly modern geometrical style of the Art Deco movement. However, it remains a sought after period today for those looking for a delicate, feminine and high quality piece of antique jewellery.