In jewellery, a technique is used to attach gems to the jewel, it is called setting. There are different ways to set a stone, here are the main setting techniques:
The claw setting
The claw setting is the most commonly usedmethod of setting stones. The stone is clamped between several claws, from 2 to 8 claws, but most often only 4. Once the stone is well lodged between these claws, they are folded over the stone so that it cannot escape. The claw setting is widely used for the solitaire.
Art Deco diamond solitaire 0.50 Ct
The closed setting
As the name suggests, the closed setting consists of surrounding the stone with a sheet of metal. The metal is folded around the stone to enclose it with a small mechanical or electric hammer. If a stone is not completely closed, it is called a half or semi-closed setting.
Heraldic signet ring, intaglio on amethyst
The grain, millegrain or pavé setting
Several small stones are held together by small claws close to each other; These claws are in fact very small metal balls. Once all the stones have been set, a pavé effect can be seen. This setting technique is typical of Belle Époque and Art Deco.
Art Deco diamond drop necklace
The rail crimp
The rail setting consists of sliding the stones between two parallel rails. The sizes suitable for this setting are square, round, oval and baguette shapes. The rail setting is most often found on wedding rings and on the Art Deco jewellery It is most often used on wedding rings and on jewellery that includes "calibrated" stones.
Horseshoe ring in rose gold with ruby
The illusionsetting
The illusionsetting allows the jeweller to create an optical effect by making it appear that no setting exists and that the stones stand alone. The stones are therefore concealed using several techniques, either by sliding the stones on a metal rail or by masking the metal as much as possible by making it extremely thin.
In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels patented the mythical mysterious setting, an ultra-sophisticated illusion setting, where the metal becomes invisible.
Clip "Mysterious Panache
Mystery Set Stained glass coloured sapphires, diamonds
Photo : Van Cleef & Arpels
The mass setting
This setting technique consists of integrating a stone into the mass of the jewel, usually on a rounded surface. In this way, the stones are often almost swallowed up, and only the stone table is visible.
The bar crimp
Mostly used for wedding rings, this type of setting is a technique that allows several stones to be placed next to each other between two parallel walls called bars.
Yellow gold and diamond wedding ring