Although Art Deco design first appeared in the mid-1910s, it wasn’t until the Roaring Twenties, or Années Folles in France, that the movement really took off. When the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes (Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts) was held in Paris in 1925 it not only marked the beginning of a new design era in architecture, interiors, decorative crafts, and jewellery but it also gave Art Deco its name, from the French Arts Décoratifs.
Art Deco gold and diamond pendant
Whilst some Art Deco designs nodded to the 1890 to 1910 movement of Art Nouveau, which was inspired by nature and characterised by soft curves and symbols of flora and fauna, the new style was heavily influenced by the changes in society. The years following WWI were full of hope, decadence, and modernity which can be seen referenced in Art Deco jewellery’s strong linear lines, contemporary geometric shapes, and liberal use of glittering diamonds which had been cut using the very latest techniques.
A WOMEN'S STORY
Perhaps the main inspiration for jewellers has been the women themselves, who wear these new styles. Having, for many, replaced men in many industries during the war, they were reluctant to return to their former lives, began to emancipate themselves, and enjoyed a greater role in society, and more freedom. The fashion details of the Belle ÉpoqueThe new styles, such as feminine bows and ribbons, and frills, were replaced by the garçonne style with a fuller silhouette and shorter dresses giving women more freedom of movement.
The trend for scoop neck flapper dresses and short bobbed hair showed off beautifully the dangling Art Deco earrings and long necklaces, known as sautoir, which were often tassled at the end and moved as women drank and danced. Rows of long pearls, popularised by Coco Chanel, were worn wrapped around newly exposed necks and diamond bracelets were stacked on the wrist.
Long pearl necklace with diamond clasp
The double-clip brooch double-clip brooch, which also became popular, was a convertible piece of jewellery made up of two identical parts that could be worn as a single brooch or two separate brooches on the two lapels of a jacket for example. There is also a trend for the ruffle pin, a pin with a design on each end. When worn, the pin is hidden behind fabric and only the two decorative motifs are visible.
New accessories are also being created to accompany lifestyle changes. hair jewellery to adorn the new short haircuts or to allow women to tie their hair up for sports such as tennis, enamelled cases are created to carry cigarettes, or compact compact compacts that can be taken out in the evening to refresh make-up.
AN ARCHITECTURAL STYLE
As well as being a time of fun and frivolity the 1920s was also a decade of technological advancement which inspired all of the arts, including jewellery. When the Chrysler Building was completed in 1930 it was the tallest building in the world before it was replaced just a few months later by the Empire State Building, and the long lines of these ultra-modern constructions can be seen mirrored in Art Deco jewellery, particularly in pieces by Raymond Templier who incorporated similar sleek shapes in his designs before the buildings even went up.
Platinum and diamond signet ring
Colourwise, Art Deco jewellery was at first defined by a mostly black and white palette, partly influenced by new jewellery techniques at the time. Platinum began to replace silver as the metal of choice and gave jewellery an even brighter, whiter finish which showed off to dazzling effect the brilliant cut diamond, which had only recently appeared in 1919.
Baguette diamonds also made their appearance, their straight and angular lines blending perfectly with the geometric shapes of Art Deco jewellery. In addition to sparkling diamonds, pearls, black onyx, black enamel and rock crystal were used to complete the monochrome style. Emeralds, blue sapphiresand rubies are also popular gemstones for designers who want to add a touch of colour.
SOURCES OF INSPIRATION
The Art Deco style also drew its inspiration from more exotic influences, in particular from Egypt. When Howard Carter discovered the tomb of Tutankhamen in 1922, the relay of information by the international press gave rise to a fascination for everything related to Egypt, and the emergence of a new trend called Egyptomania appeared. Ancient Egyptian symbols such as the lotus flower, the pyramid and the scarab were incorporated into jewellers' designs, and more colourful gems such as lapis lazuli, coral, carnelian and turquoise were used.
Two gold and diamond japanese pendant
Some designers took inspiration from India, in particular Jacques Cartier, who after learning the Indian technique of carving gemstones began to sculpt vivid sapphires, emeralds and rubies into leaves, flowers, fruit and other foliage to create a range of colourful bracelets and necklaces which would later become a signature style of the jewellery house known as “Tutti Frutti”.
Other jewellers looked to Africa, such as Jean Dunand whose "Giraffe" necklaces were inspired by African prints and famously worn by Josephine Baker, as well as Japan and China, leading to a trend for symbols such as pagodas, fans, and Chinese dragons and jewellery pieces crafted in enamel, lacquer and gemstones such as Oriental coral, pearls, and jade.
THE DECLINE
Tank ring diamonds and sapphires
After the period of the Great Depression in the early 1930s and the outbreak of WWII in 1939 the Art Deco period came to an end and later made way for big, bold and colourful cocktail jewellery of the Retro period which followed the sombre austerity of the war years.
However, Art Deco design has never really gone out of style in jewellery and has become a modern classic which looks as relevant and as contemporary today as it did nearly 100 years ago.
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