Since birthstones "no longer hold any secrets for you (we refer you to the eponymous article to discover yours, then to its dedicated column in our journal), Galerie Pénélope continues to reveal the secrets of gemstones with topaz.
It is sometimes called "noble topaz" or "precious topaz".
Ring Bvlgari Astrale yellow gold, gemstones and diamonds
The stone has the particularity of being "allochromatic": colorless by default, it is the elements interfering with the gem during its growth that give it its hue. Most topazes are pastel-colored. Those with a bright natural color do exist, but they are rare and expensive.
One of the most important and historic sources of topaz is the Minas Gerais region of Brazil. As the stone is relatively abundant on the surface of the globe, in addition to Brazil, Germany and Russia are the main sources.
A rainbow gem
Let's return to one of our favourite subjects: birthstones. birthstones.
To our knowledge, topaz is the only gemstone to be associated with two different months of the year: November when it is yellowDecember when it is blue. Did you know that? It could be because of its color, which seems to have evolved in the collective imagination.
In our article on citrinewe gave you a quick overview of the origins of birthstones. Three main repertoires - one in Poland dating back to the 18th century, one in England and one in the U.S. from the early 20th century - occasionally updated (citrine was added in the 1950s), have resulted in a basic list. As a result, Scorpios born in November can still choose between citrine and topaz, provided the stone is yellow. As for Sagittarians, if turquoise is historically the employee of the month, they are also attributed other blue gems (with the exception of the sapphirethe privilege of September natives). These include zircon, tanzanite and, not surprisingly, topaz.
Marquise diamonds and blue topaz
But then, a topaz is rather yellow or rather blue ?
Like the sapphire which exists naturally in virtually every hue of the rainbow (except red, in which case it's a ruby), there are topazes in every color. There are even bicolors, often yellow + pink. Can you name another gem with a color zonation? We'll give you a hint: amethyst + citrine = ... ? Go to our journal to (re)discover it!
In any case, when it comes to topaz, three colors stand out the most: yellow, pink and the blue.
Gold ball ring citrine blue topaz amethysts
Predominant colors
Yellow topaz topaz is the most historic: the gem's name certainly comes from the island of Topazios, today the island of Zabargad, located off the coast of Egypt in the Red Sea. Sound familiar? That's right, it's THE sexy provenance for peridots in our article on the stone of August natives. Another confusion: until the Middle Ages, it was thought that all yellow gems were topaz and that all topaz was yellow. The confusion between citrine and topaz would endure: in the 19th century, many yellow quartz gems were still called "citrine topaz".
Marie, Princess William of Württemberg wearing the Württemberg Pink Topaz Tiara [Detail], 1877, The Royal Collection Trust of United Kingdom.
Württemberg tiara, pink topaz and diamonds, Private collection.
Topaz pink topaz exists in its natural state, but is quite rare: it is often a heated yellow stone. The discovery is attributed to a Parisian jeweller named Dumelle, who is said to have unearthed the rose pot by heating an imperial topaz. The "pink topaz" craze was on! The gem's popularity peaked in the eighteenth century, then returned more occasionally in the following century.
Yellow gold topaz and garnet ring
Finally, the democratization of blue topaz is a more recent phenomenon. vintage jewelry (from the 1950s-60s) rather than very old jewelry. Similar in appearance to theaquamarine unlike blue beryl, its color is often obtained by irradiation. In contemporary jewelry, blue topaz is divided into three sub-families: "Sky blue", the color closest to aquamarine, "Swiss blue", vivid and intense, and "London blue", with its deep duck-blue hue.
Sky blue - Swiss blue - London blue" topazes
Photographs via Gemfrance.
As yellow topazes are more confidential today, we believe that this explains how from yellow the gem turned blue in the collective mind.
Finally, two more "extra-ordinary" topazes deserve a mention here. The first, rare and highly sought-after, is imperial topaz. The quintessential member of the family yellowIts hue can be compared to that of a sweet wine, with orange reflections. In the past, it was heated to change its color, but today it would be a total heresy to do so.
Antique imperial topaz daisy ring surrounded by diamonds
The second is Mystic Topaz, dating from 1998. Its distinctive kaleidoscopic color, predominantly green and violet, is the result of heating combined with a fine metallic deposit. Almost completely man-made, it is far less precious to the gemologist. Nevertheless, it can sometimes be found among the jewelry selections of certain dealers. These are now vintage pieces, since 2024 is as far removed from 1998 as the latter is from 1972.
Cushion-cut mystic topaz.
Topaz in the history of jewelry
Topaz in the 18th century
Ornament [Detail], Imperial topazes on pearls, Portugal, Circa 1760 in Georgian Jewellery (Ginny Redington Dawes, Olivia Collings).
In the 18th century, the finest topazes, including imperial topazes of a slightly pinkish hue, came from the Minas Gerais region of Brazil. The country was under Portuguese rule at the time, so it's no surprise that the stone was used in Portuguese jewelry. It was particularly well-suited to the floral motifs and bows abundant in jewelry at the time. Topaz is occasionally mixed with other gems, such as aquamarine. A little later, in the 18th century, imperial topaz was again used, this time with diamonds. The stones were sometimes set on paillon, a thin layer of aluminum designed to change the color of a gem or enhance its brilliance.
Topaz in the 19th century
Dependent on the political and social context of its time, the history of the Decorative Arts, including that of jewelry, is more closely linked to History "with a capital H" than one might spontaneously think. For example, as we saw in the article on the History of Jewellery in the 19th centurythe Egyptian campaign initiated by Napoleon I gave rise to a wave of "Éjou". Égyptomania "under the First Empire. Artists and craftsmen, including jewelers, appropriated ancient Egyptian motifs in their own way. This infatuation with fantasized Egypt was also to be found during the Art Deco with the discovery of Tutankhamen's tomb in 1922.
Ancient scarab comb, Egyptomania tiara
In the case of topaz, but also for other gemstones, the democratization of the gemstone seems to have been favored by two major factors. Firstly, European colonization of the Americas, and in particular South America, provided a considerable source of gemstones. Secondly, in France, political instability at the turn of the 19th century led aristocrats to flee during the Revolution, only to return when the Monarchy was re-established in 1814. This long exile having forced most of them to sell their possessions to live, they had to find "eye-catching" jewelry at lower cost on their return. This led to the development of new goldsmithing techniques that gave the impression of volume, as well as the abundance of large, inexpensive gemstones.
Brooch, Topaz, gold (repercé and canetille), circa 1820-1840, Paris, Musée des Arts Décoratifs.
In fact, in the 19th century, topaz was found on more specific settings: canetille ornaments like the brooch example above, graduated rivière necklaces and decorative rings. Rings set with gold and pink topazes, matched to dress colors and worn in accumulation, were very popular. Finally, pink topaz pink topaz is a stone of choice for sentimental jewelry, where it is sometimes associated with the pearl.
The gem also adorns certain sovereign jewels, starting with the set that belonged to Marie-Louise of Austria, Napoleon I's second wife.
After François Gérard, Portrait de Marie-Louise d'Autriche, Impératrice des Français [Detail], Circa 1812, Fontainebleau, Musée National du Château de Fontainebleau.
Marie-Louise was only 18 when she married the Emperor in 1810. He, by the way, was already 40: that's what it takes to give France an heir.
If Josephine, Napoleon's first wife, was all about splendor and display - as well as having a sincere passion for jewelry; it seems that Marie-Louise preferred to live surrounded only by her intimates. When reference is made to Empress No. 2 in the jewelry world, it's often to the fabulous wedding basket of jewels given by her emperor husband. Napoleon shared his first wife's taste for ostentation: "According to [his orders], all women at court were to be magnificently dressed and adorned, the empress first" (Claudette Joannis, Bijoux des deux Empires 1804-1870: Mode et sentiment).
The set of pink topazes worn by Marie-Louise in François Gérard's painting was also a gift from Napoleon. In all likelihood, it was made by the jeweler Nitot, originally of the Chaumet firm, on the occasion of the empress's twentieth birthday. Marie-Louise took the set with her on her return to the Viennese court, while her husband was in exile on the island of Elba. A discreet life... but not without a few shining moments!
20th century and beyond
Set for the Royal Family of Sweden, pink topazes and diamonds, circa 1908.
Three other sets of pink topaz are also relatively well known: you will have seen earlier in the article that of the Württemberg family, also 19th century. We should also mention that of the Italian royal family, worn by actress Clotilde Courau at her wedding to Emmanuel Filibert de Savoie.
Finally, as shown above, the Swedish royal family also has its own set, worn from time to time by the current Queen Silvia. Dating from around 1908, it is in the pure Belle Époque style of the time, sometimes referred to as the "Guirlande" style (you can see why). If you'd like to find out more about the jewelry designs and techniques of the time, check out our article on twentieth-century jewelry, part 1.
You'll also discover that Belle Époque fashion was contemporaneous with a trend that broke with its classicist aesthetic: Art Nouveau.
Alfons Mucha, La topaze [The Gems], decorative panels (set of 4 panels), 1902.
A leading figure in the movement and a champion of feminine allegories, Alfons Mucha created a series of decorative panels in 1902 depicting four gemstones: amethyst, emerald, ruby and topaz. The artist was closely associated with the jewelry industry, designing a line of jewelry with Fouquet for actress Sarah Bernhardt.
It's true, we've told you this before, but they say you have to read something at least three times before you remember it! So don't hesitate to (re)browse Galerie Pénélope's Histoire du Bijou via our journal It outlines the (meandering) outlines of the Art Nouveau style. This bold artistic movement paved the way for new jewelers, such as René Lalique, who chose gems for their decorative qualities rather than their intrinsic value. Topaz continues to adorn the jewelry of the period.
The gem is also found in vintage jewelry, as in our gourmet heart ring below.
Vintage yellow gold and coloured stone ring
To conclude
Generally speaking, we don't go into the cabalistic properties of stones in our dedicated articles. However, many websites deal with "gemmology" in this way, and Galerie Pénélope's article on birthstones.
Topaz, like most gems, is believed to have occult powers, such as dispelling anger, curing baldness and promoting creativity. And here's our favorite ancient Greek belief: in case of danger, the stone makes the wearer invisible. That's even cooler than Harry Potter's invisibility cloak!
One thing's for sure: with our topaz jewelry, it's impossible for you to go unnoticed 😉
