After Fifty Shades of Green, Blushing with pleasure, Purple Tales, L'heure bleue, White as snow, Carnet rose and Yellowwe continue our colorful explorations with orange.
Complementary to blue in the chromatic circle, the secondary hue is obtained by mixing red and yellow yellow. Michel Pastoureau, the Pope of color symbolism, classifies orange as one of what he calls the "demi-couleurs". Along with pinkaccording to the historian, the symbolic significance of the color is less rich than that of the "main" colors: red, green, blue, yellowblack and white. And if the link between white and color still doesn't make sense to you, we invite you to read dedicated article.
Don't worry, half-color or not, Galerie Pénélope always has a story to tell to help you shine at your dinner parties.
Vogue, 1928.
Precious orange
Coral branch necklace with rose gold clasp
In the age of globalization, when strawberries are available in the dead of winter, we've forgotten that until the Second World War, oranges (the fruit) were a luxury item. Imported into the West in the 14th century, oranges were grown in orangeries, heated "winter gardens" that could only be owned by aristocrats or the bourgeoisie, given their high running costs. What Generation Y child hasn't heard his grandfather, faced with the debauchery of plastic toys at the foot of the Christmas tree, say that "in his day, all you got for Christmas was an orange"?
Hermès advertising, 1970s via Pinterest.
Another link between orange, the color rather than the fruit, and luxury is undoubtedly the Hermès brand. Did you know that the association of the color with the house is totally coincidental? Hermès packaging was originally cream-colored. However, during the Second World War, raw material shortages were rampant. In our article on the history of jewelry in the 20th century (Part 2), we explain, for example, that imitation gems could be found on jewelry from the 1940s due to the interruption of gemstone imports. Returning to Hermès, following these supply difficulties, the cream was no longer available from the printer. However, the printer still had a stock of orange sheets, as the color was not very popular at the time. A happy coincidence, it seems, since today orange has become one of the emblems of the luxury house.
Antique topaz daisy ring set in diamonds
In gemmology, orange and precious sometimes go hand in hand. sapphire padparadscha sapphire (discussed in our article on the birthstone of September) or imperial topaz, both of which are tinted orange.
Other gems and organic materials are also commonly used in jewelry: amber, coralcoral citrine madeira, carnelian garnets spessartite and hessonite, fire opal and sunstone.
Hair from hell
We can't talk about orange without mentioning the stigmatization of redheads. Although redheads make up less than 2% of the world's population, unfounded beliefs about them persist to this day.
Albert Joseph Moore, Midsummer, 1887, Bournemouth, Russel-Cotes Art Gallery & Museum
Their marginalization began in Antiquity, when orange hair was a marker of rejection. In Roman theater, for example, jesters, slaves and other social outcasts were played by actors wearing red wigs.
Later, in medieval times, redheads were particularly unpopular, as their flamboyant mane was thought to correlate with the flames of Hell. With the rise of the Catholic religion, red hair was seen as a symbol of heretics.
Antique feather brooch with fire opal and diamonds
In our article on yellowwe told you that as early as the 9th century, painters began to adorn Judas, considered a traitor for having contributed to the arrest of Jesus, with stigmatizing attributes. One of Christ's twelve apostles was sometimes dressed in yellow, left-handed or with red hair.
As for redheaded women, in the Middle Ages they were not only accused of witchcraft, but also considered to be sexually wild (always in connection with Hell).
Did you know? In 1254, Saint-Louis ordered that all prostitutes be dyed red to differentiate them from so-called "respectable" women. And the link between freckles and the charm trade continued until at least the 19th century. One example is the orange hair of Nana, a prostitute from Emile Zola's novels. At this time, however, with the fashion for auburn hair, red takes on a double connotation of seduction. It was of particular interest to Pre-Raphaelite painters such as Dante Gabriel Rossetti, whose work A vision of Fiammetta is reproduced here.
Dante Gabriel Rossetti, A vision of Fiammetta, 1878, Private collection.
In fact, since the Renaissance, redheaded women have occupied a place of choice in painting, although some of today's hairstyles would be considered more Venetian blond. And do you know what Ramses II, Christopher Columbus, Henry IV, Elizabeth I and Henry VIII all had in common? Yes, they all had red hair! Portraits of historical figures also contributed to the revaluation of redheads.
Unknown artist, Portrait of Elizabeth I, circa 1575
An opportunity to recall the importance of painting and its impact on society at a time when photography did not exist. Before the invention of photography in the 19th century, painting was the only medium of representation. For example, aspiring brides and grooms would have a canvas portrait of their suitor sent to them. In the same way as on a dating website, and depending on the skill of the painter, this could lead to delight or disappointment during the first IRL (*InReal Life) tête-à-tête.
Miniature portraits also adorn precious objects (such as snuffboxes, which were very fashionable at the time) and jewelry of the period, like our antique brooch below. They are offered as souvenirs or tokens of friendship or love.
Antique gold brooch and miniature portrait
Orange symbolism
While we're on the subject of union, the orange (the fruit) evokes the wedding ceremony in Mediterranean culture. An ancient custom is to offer oranges, a nod to the golden apples in the Garden of the Hesperides that were given by the Graces to Juno & Jupiter at their wedding (the Roman equivalents of Hera and Zeus). A good omen, since orange is symbolically linked to fertility.
Do you know why? Because the orange tree produces both flowers and fruit! Finally, orange blossoms are favored for bridal bouquets and are sometimes found in head jewels (it's not uncommon to find wax crowns dating back to the first half of the 20th century), probably for the same reasons.
Hair comb, antique horn and coral tiara, on silver vermeil
Orange is also considered dynamic and sociable. Still in Roman mythology, the color is associated with Bacchus (our own Dionysus Greek Dionysus), God of Wine and earthly pleasures, honored at the "Bacchanalia", during which the Bacchantes were dressed in orange tunics.
Despite its sunny character, orange is struggling to conquer our hearts. Announced today as the favorite color of 3% of women and 2% of men, 9% of women and 6% of men say it's their least favorite color. Perhaps because it's so unconventional?
Bedroom, 1970s via Pinterest.
Orange had its heyday in the 1970s, when it invaded interiors. Considered avant-garde and associated with the then burgeoning plastic industry, today it remains the symbol of a joyful, carefree era.
Older and more luxurious, have you heard of the Chambre d'Ambre, whose walls are completely covered with the organic gem? organic gem ?
Amber Room in the Catherine Palace [Detail].
Commissioned in 1701 by Prussian King Frederick I, it was presented to Russian Tsar Peter I in 1716 and installed in the Catherine Palace. Stolen and lost during the Second World War, a reproduction of the Eighth Wonder of the World can now be admired at the Tsarskoye Selo State Museum Preserve, near St. Petersburg.
Antique rose gold and amber bracelet
If you don't want to cover your walls with precious stones, we suggest you adorn yourself with our antique jewelry to delight both your taste and your spirit!