The signet ring is a ring with a large bezel that can be embellished with a coat of arms, initials or even precious stones and enamel. For a long time, this ring was worn exclusively by men, but today it has been completely adopted by women, and is one of those accessories that goes with everything!
Far from being a simple piece of jewellery, it carries a great deal of symbolism, and has inscribed its own identity for thousands of years. To understand its interest, here is the history of the signet ring through time.
Yellow gold and diamond signet ring
HISTORY
The creation of the signet ring dates back about 4,000 years to Ancient Egypt. At that time, signet rings featured the scarab motif, symbol of the sun, carved in rock crystal, amethyst, or glazed soapstone (soapstone coated with glaze which makes the stone shine). The inside of these signet rings is engraved with hieroglyphs or images that indicate the rank of its owner, often a civil servant or priest. 300 years later, the signet ring changed its shape completely to become a ring made entirely of gold and shaped like a stirrup, still with its large bezel where hieroglyphs are still represented.
Turquoise and gold beetle swivel ring
In Ancient Greece, the same type of scarab signet ring was first found, then around 600 BC, signet rings with a metallic bezel in gold or silver. Decorated with naturalistic drawings and animals, they also represent mythological scenes, as for example two rings found in the Zucker collection; one representing the myth of Daedalus and Icarus, the other a scene from the Odyssey in which Ulysses, returning to Ithaca, is recognised by his dog Argos. From this period onwards, the intaglios are particularly used.
Antique style cameo with a bunch of grapes
In Ancient Rome, the signet ring took on a whole new value, as it was now decorated with fine and precious stones. Portraits, historical or mythological events were engraved on them. For example, Julius Caesar, who claimed to be the descendant of Venus, wore a signet ring in his likeness.
As early as the third century, the signet ring was worn by Christians and featured religious motifs such as the fish and the anchor. In the Byzantine period, these religious motifs became more prominent, and images of the Virgin Mary, monograms of Christ and many other symbols were now worn on Christian fingers. Since then, the designs and motifs have gradually disappeared and been replaced by letters and numbers.
Chalcedony and rose gold heraldic signet ring
In the Middle Ages, the designs found on signet rings were much more elaborate than in the past, the name of the owner was engraved around the bezel, and the lines of the designs, numbers and letters were finer and more elaborate. It is also in this period of chivalry, that the name "signet ring" is officially given to this ring. It is engraved with a coat of arms to prove one's attachment to a person or a group.
Since ancient Egypt, signet rings have been used as seals, so the design is made upside down so that it can be right side up when applied to wax. Some people used lampblack before making the impression in the wax so that the details of the signet ring would be more visible.
Gold and Chalcedony Talisman Ring
LEGEND
Did you know that the tale of Aladdin is closely linked to a mythical ring: the magic ring of Solomon? According to legend, the "Seal of Solomon" is a magic ring that belonged to the king of Israel; it gave him the power to command "djinns" (good or evil genies) and to talk to animals. Aladdin's genie is said to have been an evil spirit that Solomon imprisoned for 1,800 years in a copper bottle sealed with a lead stopper marked with the magic ring.
The Genie of the Lamp, Edmond Dulac, 1919