WHAT IS GLYPTICS?
Glyptics, from the ancient Greek γλυπτός / glyptós, "engraved object", is an art that consists of engraving and carving hard, precious or fine stones in relief (cameo) or in hollow (intaglio). The material of the work can also be organic (shell, ivory, coral, mother-of-pearl, amber) or vegetable (precious wood).
This technique is characterized by shaping of the material by abrasion. Wear is then obtained by mechanical friction (like the sea and sand on rocks), and not by percussion (mechanical shocks).
Gold signet ring & intaglio on chalcedony
HISTORY
If gems have been carved or engraved since prehistoric times, glyptic will experience its real boom during Antiquity. In Egypt, first of all, where glyptic developed with the crafting of amulets supposed to protect their owner. Then in Greece, where it had a utilitarian function - the seal was used to affix a signature and indicate the social position of its owner.
From then on, high-ranking personalities (Hellenistic princes, philosophers, etc.) ordered intaglios - cameos made from precious and noble materials such as sardonyx,amethyst, sapphire, garnet, rock crystal or carnelian. Some emperors even went so far as to have their own engraver, capable of producing works of rare precision.
Cameo ring on carnelian, yellow gold setting
With the fall of the Roman Empire, the taste for engraved stones gradually faded, marking the end of the golden age of glyptics. It was not until the looting of Constantinople in 1204 by the Crusaders that these ancient objects were reused to enrich the treasures of churches, but also to decorate the jewelry and goldsmiths of kings.
The Renaissance was marked by renewed interest from patrons such as Laurent de Medici, which gave glyptics a second youth.
Ring intaglio Lion on carnelian
However, it was the Neo-Classical movement, following on from the ancient tradition of stone engraving, that marked the last hours of glory of glyptics from the 18th to the beginning of the 20th centuries.
Sculptures on gemstones are unfortunately becoming increasingly rare in contemporary jewellery, but fortunately antique jewellery still allows us to wear these real miniaturized works of art ;) !