Leather bracelets, heavy gold chains or imposing signet rings - have men always worn different jewelry from women? What does history have to say about men's use of jewelry?
Wearing jewelry with a spiritual purpose
The first men's jewelrydating back several tens of thousands of years, seem to have had above all a symbolic and protective purpose. They were used to curry favor with divinities, ward off evil spirits, or to protect oneself in battle.
This is also the case for religious medalsFrédéric Caille, lecturer in political science at the Université Savoie Mont Blanc, and author of "Des bijoux d'hommes? Men's jewelry? Usages et port des décorations dans la sexualisation des rôles sociaux et politiques au XIXe siècle " (Corps et ObjetEditions Le Manuscrit, 2004), doesn't always consider jewels.
" A protective medal becomes jewelry as soon as it is visible and of a certain quality. But it lacks the seductive, aesthetic element usually found in jewelry.. " Bishops also wore religious ornaments, such as the episcopal ring, solid gold or silver, and usually set with a stone, amethyst, sapphire or emerald.
Social status through jewelry
In addition to bishop's rings, the Middle Ages also saw aristocratic men wearing signet rings bearing the family coat of arms. Not only was this jewelry an ostentatious sign of their social status, it also enabled them to seal their letters with heated wax.
During the Renaissance, aristocrats were particularly fond of pearl necklaces. pearl necklaces. They allowed the men who wore them to show off their social standing, while at the same time being at the cutting edge of fashion. Bearing a certain fluidity, they were also worn with rings, hat jewels and cameos. cameosand pendants.
Michiel J. van Miereveld, George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, 1625-1626
Men also wore belt jewelry, such as scented apples. scented applesmade of delicately sculpted metal. These objects opened, and each compartment - similar to an orange wedge - contained scented pastes or powders, based on amber, musk or cinnamon. These were used not only for perfuming, but also to protect against certain diseases.
Jakob Cornelisz van Oostzanen, Portrait of a man, Circa 1518
Louis XIV was a great fan of diamonds. diamonds. He gave himself one a year, and incorporated them into his clothes: as a buttonhole, on a hat, on his sword, or on his shoes. At every public appearance, he displayed his jewels, sometimes going so far as to carry over a kilo of diamonds on his person. He even commissioned a suit entirely sewn with white diamonds to impress the Turkish ambassador.
To foreign ambassadors, or to other personalities worthy of reward, the king offered miniature portraits of himself, surrounded by diamonds, to be worn as a pendant. In addition to this precious gem, his reign also saw the introduction of the citrine become a prized stone, worn by men on rings and watches. This stone with its warm, sunny glow perfectly symbolized the Sun King.
Louis XIV portrait box, Petitot, Jean, dit le Vieux, circa 1670 / © RMN - Grand Palais (Musée du Louvre) / Jean-Gilles Berizzi.
After the French Revolution, and even more so with the Industrial Revolution, jewelry became too futile for men. " At nineteenth centurysome urban middle-class men wore charms on their watch chains, crosses, medals and various pendants reproducing small decorations.recalls Frédéric Caille. These little jewels may have had a protective but also a symbolic purpose, as decorations were a sign of power.
Honorary decorations as jewels
In the course of his research, the lecturer noted an accentuation of sexual dimorphism in the 19th century, an affirmation of masculinization. " Gendered identity then became the very foundation of white male power. Women were restricted to strict sexual and maternal roles. Men dressed in black, the masculine garb became stricter, while women had finery, lace, wore beautiful dresses, they were confined to being objects of beauty and desire. "The wearing of jewelry at this time also followed this logic, and men wore little of it.
Édouard Manet, The Balcony, 1868-1869
But there was one exception: honorary decorations. Between 1865 and around 1930, these male ornaments were almost compulsory in certain circles, to show one's power and influence. " This led to a race for decorations, especially before the First World War. "notes Frédéric Caille. " Men wore fake decorations and ribbons, and the state tried to put a stop to it. "These honorary decorations not only served to sexualize social and political roles, but were also an instrument of seduction.
Gold and diamond Legion of Honor
Today, wearing the insignia of the Legion of Honor is less of a marker of social position than it once was. But it retains a certain notability, particularly in government circles. It is a jewel of political significance, which can be truly declined in the form of a piece of jewelry rather than a decoration, if the decorated person so wishes.
Men's jewelry in the 20th century
From the 1950s-1960s, some men wore christening bracelets with large links. Their first name was usually engraved on them. The earringworn on one side only between the 16th and 17th centuries, notably by sailors and privateers, also had its moment of glory at the end of the 20th century. It was sometimes a sign of belonging to a community, punk or gay for example. " In the 1980s, if you wore it on the right, it meant " I'm a homosexual ". Then singers like Bernard Lavilliers popularized it. "
H' monogrammist, Sir Walter Ralegh, 1588
Punks, rockers, goths and rappers have reappropriated men's jewelry, sporting big gold rings, thick chains and skull rings. The face piercings also enjoyed their heyday at the very end of the twentieth century. They were sometimes associated with free party or techno music fans.
A more fluid relationship with jewelry today
Today, there is a certain fluidity between masculine and feminine jewelry. " A few decades ago, for a man to wear feminine jewelry was a transgression, often a claim to belong to the homosexual community. In today's younger generation, this transgression has largely fallen away, particularly with gender non-binarity. Many twentysomethings wear jewelry, without it being specifically masculine or feminine. "says Frédéric Caille.
For men in positions of power, ties have replaced pearl necklaces, but they too sometimes indulge in a little whimsy by wearing a bracelet made of wooden beads, for example, brought back from a trip abroad.
Gold, enamel and diamond signet ring
The rings are also making a comeback. " Today, there are those who wear a lot of rings, those who wear only a defensive ring defensive ringlike a brass knuckle, and then of course there are the wedding rings. These rings are an element of seriousness and normality, an aesthetic ornament that can also be religious, and sometimes even an element of seduction. The signet rings are also making a comeback.. "
In trendy and artistic circles, men wear all kinds of jewelry. But the most symbolic remains the pearl necklace. A$AP Rocky and Harry Styles reappropriated this traditional feminine and bourgeois accessory in 2019, not hesitating to pair it with sportswear. The trend has since been adopted by a number of twentysomethings, led by Timothée Chalamet.
In addition to pearl necklaces, the actor doesn't hesitate to show off his brooches from Cartier, for whom he is a brand ambassador. Together, they even created a necklace inspired by Dune. But Timothée Chalamet also likes to wear antique jewelry on red carpets.
Wearing vintage jewelry is becoming a coquetry that young men like to indulge in. It's the perfect opportunity to bring out your grandmother's strings of pearls, while de-embossing the jewel in the process. Chevalières, antique cameosbrooches, or ear pearls are now part of the range of antique jewels prized by men.
Antique LION RING. abstract brooch. roman medal. horseshoe ring. mono bo art deco signet ring. moon brooch. aquarius medal; red agate pendant; smoky quartz seal; emerald creole; operculum brooch; emeraldlion