If you missed the beginning: The Belle Époque, Art Nouveau and Art Deco, it's here !
***
The 1940s
Rita Hayworth by Robert Coburn, Screenland, Vol. 50 No 8, 1946
The carefree days of the 1920s were over: the economic crisis of the 1930s, the Spanish war and the threat of a second world war put an end to the joy of the 'Roaring Twenties'. The 1940s saw the emergence of a new style in the image of the 1937 World Fair. On this subject, we can read in L'Aventure de l'Art au XXe siècle [Dir. J.-L. Ferrier and J. Le Pichon]: "Germany, the USSR, Spain, Italy and even France challenged each other in a contest of grandiloquent neo-classicism, with heavy and aggressive buildings, in contrast to the initial objective of the Exhibition, which was to bring together everything that unites people and nothing that separates them. It was clear that the Second World War was about to break out. At that time, there was also the supremacy of the machine, denounced in 1936 by Charlie Chaplin in the film Modern Times, but also the glorification of strength and speed.
At the same time, a new type of emancipated woman developed, who worked and escaped through the cinema. It was the advent of the big companies: Paramount, M-G-M, Warner Bros. The image of the sexy Hollywood woman, so well embodied by Rita Hayworth, appeared: impeccable pleats (long live the curlers), mouth and nails lacquered with red.
These two tendencies can be found in the half-mechanical, half-glamorous jewellery of the time.
Firstly, the Second World War led to the rationing of precious metals and a halt to gemstone imports. If sometimes the voluminous forms allow to compensate for the rarity of the stones, it is not unusual to find imitation gems on the coins of the 40s. Nevertheless, in these difficult times, jewellery is also becoming an easily transportable refuge. This is why less attention was paid to the ornamental character during this period and why the jewels are more imposing than those of previous eras. Wasn't it also a way of keeping up appearances for the wealthy? And indeed, it was better if they were showy. In this sense, the jewellery of the 1940s is really typical of a time of crisis. It is also sometimes called BOF for "Butter, Egg, Cheese" denouncing the black market enrichment of certain opportunists. The ephemeral nature of the fashion of this jewellery, as well as probably a desire to forget those dark years, unfortunately caused many of them to be dismantled and melted down.
Caged bird and liberated bird, patriotic jewellery from the 1940s, Jeanne Toussaint for Cartier.
While jewellers drew their inspiration from their everyday lives, for example with patriotic jewellery or an obsessive interest in machines and tools, notably with chains reminiscent of chariot wheels, the lines of 1940s jewellery became softer. There is a return to curves (reminiscent of the voluptuous forms of Hollywood actresses) despite a still geometric appearance. There are also swirls, volutes, folds and knots inspired by textiles.
The emblematic piece of jewellery of this period is without doubt the Tank ring , which incorporates these different elements.
Tank Ring Natural Diamonds & Sapphires
Cocktail jewellery also appeared, mixing 20th century themes and inspirations, as well as figurative, almost naïve, drawings of characters such as the ballerina and animals. Brooches representing a bouquet of flowers were also very popular.
Very often in yellow gold, the jewels are decorated with colours with a predilection for the following stones: rubies, sapphirestopaz, aquamarines, amethysts These are much cheaper than precious stones and can be larger in size.
tank ring diamonds, tank ring sapphire, tank ring rollers
The 1950s
Marilyn Monroe on the set of Niagara directed by Henry Hataway, 1952.
This time, the war years are behind us! A key event in the history of fashion is the first Christian Dior show in 1947 and the advent of the New Look of the 1950s. But do you know where this term comes from? It was coined by Carmel Snow, then editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar, who said to the designer at the end of the show, "My dear Christian, your dresses have such a new look!" With choked waists and corolla skirts, Dior signed a collection that revived femininity. The emblematic piece of this collection is the bar suit, composed of a cream jacket buttoned in the middle front to fit the shape of the chest and with a garrote waist, as well as a black pleated flared skirt that stops below the knee. All this was accessorised with a "tambourine" hat and a pair of black gloves. The collection was a runaway success and foreshadowed the fashion of the next decade. France was entering a phase of growth, undergoing both economic and social changes following the end of the war: it was the great period of the Trente Glorieuses and the baby boom among others!
Bar suit by Christian Dior, 1947
The jewellery industry is also recovering, with jewellery becoming less imposing in favour of quality. Here again, our country continues to set the tone, even if Italy is beginning to bring a style based on eclecticism and fantasy.
Two trends, which continue to this day, are taking shape: on the one hand, handcrafted jewelry, heralding the artists' jewelry of the following decade, and on the other, sophisticated jewelry, expensive because of the materials used. 4 precious stones. There was also a revival of platinum, andwhite gold was favored: the all-white diamond trend dominated.
Ring Mauboussin Platinum & Diamonds
This can be seen today in the many imitation models in silver-plated metal and rhinestones that have come down to us. The themes inherited from the 1940s continue to be explored, but in more complex ways. For example, theuse of threads of all kinds still evokes fabric and trimmings, but in a more flexible way than in the previous decade.
We also find naturalist inspirations, with a preponderance of leaves and feathers, but also motifs of whirlpools, waterfalls, flowers, birds, insects, shells, etc., right up to pets.
When coloured stones are used, surprising combinations can be expected.
Pierre Sterlé is a good example of a jeweller emblematic of the joyful and opulent jewellery of this period.
The jewellery of the Lyon-based Augis company, and in particular their love medal inspired by Rosemonde Gérard's line "For you see, every day I love you more, today more than yesterday and less than tomorrow" was also very popular at the time. Do you prefer rings? Good thing we have both for you!
The 1960s
Les parapluies de Cherbourg, Film by Jacques Demy, 1964.
In case you're wondering, yes; big Catherine Deneuve passion at Galerie Pénélope! From the 60's onwards, it's a bit more of a mess to find your way around the jewellery store... in the image of this revolutionary decade no doubt?
Vietnam War, May '68, Women's Liberation Movement - Ahah hello leitmotif: the 1960s are synonymous with protest in many ways. In retrospect, we also think of the advent of the consumer society with the opening of the first supermarket in France, the surge of plastic (this formidably eco-responsible material). Fortunately, there are also happier things happening, such as the pill, man's first step on the moon, the Beatles and the Rolling Stones, and Mary Quant's miniskirt! It was a period of cultural and socio-economic influence for the United States and England. In terms of fashion, hello to the mini, as well as trapeze dresses, tall boots and the first jeans. The tone was no longer set by haute-couture but by the street and Yves Saint-Laurent and Pierre Bergé made no mistake in founding Rive gauche, their ready-to-wear brand in 1966.
When it comes to jewelry, there are two schools of thought: on the one hand, luxury brands that remain loyal to their customers and continue to offer jewelry made in the traditional way.White gold, rediscovered in the '50s, continues to be used. The metal is more discreet, with the emphasis on the claw-set setting; on the other hand, there is a profusion of stones set in tiers, like a Christmas tree. Shuttle and baguette cuts are in vogue.
Onyx, quartz, coral, aquamarine, carnelian, citrine- when it comes to colors, we're having a field day! Last but not least, there is a strong naturalist animal inspiration. The houses of Place Vendôme are also winning over a Middle Eastern clientele where the display of rank and wealth is still the order of the day.
Gold & Diamond Boule Plume Ring
The other school was a new generation of jewellers who were much less formal and who had their origins in England with a clientele of the newly rich. In 1961, the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths organised an exhibition of modern jewellery that allowed jewellery to be seen as a means of artistic expression. Jewellery was elevated to the rank of fine art and taught as such. A bit like Art Nouveau, where the boundaries between major and minor arts were dissolving, the 1960s also shared with this trend the choice of materials for their aesthetics and not their value : raw crystals, tiger's eye, coral, lapis lazuli for example. Abroad, more so than in France, some seek to go beyond the idea of jewellery as an external sign of wealth.
Earrings Coral, Sapphires, Diamonds
Finally, fashion is turning towards a kind of dystopian future embodied by the "space" style of Courrèges, the "Cosmos" dress of Balmain or the metallic dresses of Paco Rabanne; in the wake of Neil Armstrong's first steps on the moon!
The 1970s
Singer Cher, photo via © Pinterest
The end of the 60s saw the emergence of the hippie movement. And then, the 70s also saw colour television, disco and its dose of glitter! A relative lightness resulting from a flourishing economy and the battles won in May 1968. An artificial paradise suspended between the previous revolutionary decade and the "No future" punk prefiguring the austere 80s. Of course, once again the era had its share of misfortunes, notably the ravages of drugs creating the sinister "club of 27".
Jean Vendome Ring in Gold, Diamonds and Emeralds, "America" Collection
But overall, a wind of freedom blew over those years. Youth became a value beyond the situation and society ceased to be conformist, everyone mixed. Fashion is a good indicator of this state of mind: improbable acid colours, mini-skirts, bell-bottoms, ruffled shirts, long flowery skirts, fur boots... to each his own! This freedom can be found in the completely whimsical stage outfits of David Bowie and Elton John. The key word: eclecticism.
Loulou de la Falaise is one of the emblematic figures of the period. She was married to Thadée Klossowski, with whom she perfectly embodied the golden, sovereign and wild youth of the time. Muse and friend of Yves Saint-Laurent, she joined the designer in 1972. Whimsical, joyful and original, she put her creativity at the service of the house. Loulou gradually gained in importance and Saint-Laurent eventually entrusted her with the responsibility of the "knitwear and accessories" department, offering her the opportunity to design the jewellery for the haute couture collections.
Boucheron "Serpent Bohème" ring by André Vassort
Voluminous and colourful, the jewellery of the time was inspired by fauna and flora , but also by ethnic African ornaments and Ancient Egypt. In France, luxury brands continued the tradition of the 1960s by continuing to use precious materials while working to renew them. For example, the designer Costanza, who at the time created collections for Pierre Cardin and Hermès, worked with both gold and altuglas, a type of plastic. Don't worry, the ring we propose is made of 18kt gold with a natural unheated Burmese sapphire! In any case, the art of jewellery seems to be established with a real recognition of what we would call today designers.
Costanza Ring, Burmese Sapphire on Yellow Gold
Finally, in the continuity of a fantasised future initiated by the haute couture of the late 1960s, the jewellery of the 1970s was inspired by the new conquest of space and micro-technologies, combining metal and coloured plastic and bordering on sculpture. One of the challenges would soon be the use of new materials derived from space technology, such as niobium, which has the same density as gold and the particularity of being a refractory material (i.e. able to reflect all the colours of the spectrum).
Futuristic Gold & Amethyst Ring
As you can see, it's a bit more chaotic than in the 1960s to find your way around! As a result, we prefer to bet on safe havens: gold, precious and fine stones... What else? 😊
Ear clips Puyforcat, Gold, Silver & Carnelian
Now that we have traced a century of history together, can you name your favourite current?
At Galerie Pénélope, we love them all! - But to choose, Camille has a predilection for modernist jewellery from the 30s, Alicia prefers tank rings from the 40s and for my part, my heart leans towards the garland style. A beautiful complementarity, for a fine team!