The Charles X period, better known as the Restoration, was a flourishing period for jewellery design despite a complicated economic context. It is dated from 1814 to 1830.
HISTORICAL CONTEXT
The French Empire, later called the First Empire, fell in 1814. After that, the Count of Provence, Louis XVIII and the Bourbons took over power from 1815 to 1824, and from 1824 to 1830, they were succeeded by the Count of Artois, Charles X.
Their goal? To recreate the society of the Ancien Régime despite the many economic difficulties they encountered following the numerous and costly Napoleonic campaigns.
Poison" pendant in the shape of a harp
As far as jewellery is concerned, it is easy to summarise: it is often light, but extremely sophisticated. It is the jeweller's know-how that takes precedence over the raw material (gold, precious stones, etc.), which is not very affordable in these times of economic crisis.
INFLUENCES
Antiquity and the jewels of the Middle Ages greatly influenced jewellers. But also the Renaissance, the Charles X jewels often include cameos, baroque pearls ; all mounted in pampille or pendeloque. In France, Germany and England, Romanticism, an artistic and literary movement that appeared in the 18th century, remained in vogue; Designers are nostalgic for the old days and draw their inspiration from old jewellery.
A FASHION STORY
All types of jewellery are found in the early 19th century. The latter, however, were in harmony with the clothing style of the time: Sets, half-sets, brooches, earrings and necklaces were in the limelight. The belt buckle made a comeback, and bracelets were worn in pairs, one on each arm.
Some frames are highlighted, such as the "à jour" frame, where there is no metal background. This technique allows a greater refraction of light on the cut stones, and therefore brighter jewellery.
Also appearing are grenetis - several small grains of gold tightly packed together - and cannetille -coiled metal wire. Often used together,these jewellery techniques gave a light and extremely delicatestyle to the jewellery of this period.
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